Can You Compost Worms? Ultimate Guide to Vermicomposting vs. Regular Composting

The Truth About Worms in Your Compost Bin (What You're Really Asking)

When you search "can you compost worms," you're likely asking one of two questions: "Can I put dead worms in my compost bin?" or "How do I use live worms to create compost?" This distinction matters because the answers lead down completely different gardening paths.

Many gardeners come to this question while seeking sustainable ways to manage kitchen waste or improve garden soil. You're not alone in this pursuit—composting represents one of the most accessible steps toward self-sufficiency and reduced environmental impact.

There are actually two distinct approaches to consider:

Vermicomposting (worm farming): An intentional system where specific worm species process organic matter in a controlled environment, producing nutrient-rich worm castings.
Traditional composting with worm helpers: A decomposition system where naturally occurring worms may assist in breaking down materials, but they're not the primary decomposers.

By the end of this guide, you'll understand exactly how to choose the right approach based on your available space, time constraints, and specific gardening goals. Whether you live in a studio apartment or manage a large backyard garden, there's a worm-friendly composting solution that fits your lifestyle.

Quick Reference Guide: Worms in Composting

Factor	Vermicomposting	Traditional Composting
Material Processed	Kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, shredded paper, cardboard	All of the above plus yard waste, leaves, woody materials
Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio	Less critical (worms help balance) but aim for 25:1	Critical for success (25-30:1 ideal)
Processing Time	2-3 months	6-12 months
Space Required	As small as 1 square foot	Minimum 3 cubic feet
Temperature Range	55-77°F ideal	110-160°F for hot composting
Maintenance	Weekly feeding/monitoring	Turning every 2-4 weeks
Nutrient Content	5-11-2 NPK average	1-1-1 NPK average
Indoor Suitability	Excellent	Challenging
Key Benefits	5x more nutrient-rich than regular compost, works in small spaces, faster processing of food scraps	Handles larger volumes, processes woody materials, kills weed seeds and pathogens

What Actually Happens When Worms Die in Compost? (Decomposition Explained)

Yes, dead worms can absolutely go in your regular compost bin—and they're actually beneficial additions. When worms die in compost, they become valuable organic matter themselves.

In an active compost pile, dead worms break down completely within 7-14 days. The decomposition process is similar to other protein-rich materials, with bacteria and fungi breaking down the soft tissues first. Unlike larger animals, worm bodies decompose quickly because they lack complex skeletal structures and have high moisture content.

Dead worms contribute four key nutrients to your garden soil:

Nitrogen (essential for leaf growth)
Phosphorus (supports root development and flowering)
Calcium (crucial for cell wall development)
Beneficial microorganisms (already present in the worm's digestive system)

Many gardeners worry about odor or health concerns, but there's good news on both fronts. Dead worms in properly maintained compost won't create noticeable odors because they're quickly consumed by decomposer organisms. Additionally, decomposing worms pose no health risks to humans or plants—in fact, they enhance the biological activity of your compost.

Compared to plant materials, worm bodies break down more rapidly and contribute higher nitrogen levels. This makes them similar to other protein-rich additions like kitchen scraps rather than carbon-heavy materials like leaves or wood chips.

Vermicomposting 101: Creating Your Worm-Powered Composting System

Vermicomposting is the intentional practice of using specific worm species to process organic waste into worm castings (worm poop)—arguably nature's perfect plant food. Unlike traditional composting that relies primarily on microbial activity, vermicomposting harnesses the digestive power of worms to create an exceptionally nutrient-rich end product.

Not all worms are suitable for vermicomposting. Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are the gold standard because they:

Thrive in the confined conditions of worm bins
Process organic matter near the surface rather than burrowing deeply
Reproduce quickly (doubling populations every 60-90 days)
Tolerate handling and bin disturbances

Common earthworms (nightcrawlers) are poor choices for vermicomposting as they require deep soil and will attempt to escape confined systems.

Starting a basic vermicomposting system costs under $50:

Plastic storage bin with lid ($10-15)
Drill (for air holes) or purchased worm bin ($0-30)
1 pound of red wigglers ($25-35)
Shredded newspaper or cardboard (free)

The science behind worm castings is impressive. Compared to regular compost, worm castings contain:

5x more nitrogen
7x more phosphorus
11x more potassium
Higher concentrations of beneficial microbes
Plant growth hormones that conventional compost lacks

One of the biggest advantages of vermicomposting is its space efficiency. A 1'x2' bin can process the food scraps of a typical two-person household while fitting easily under a sink or on a balcony. The maintenance commitment is minimal—just 15-20 minutes weekly to add food and check moisture levels.

Should You Add Worms to Your Existing Compost Pile? (Pros and Cons)

Adding worms to an existing compost pile makes sense in specific situations, particularly with cool composting methods where temperatures stay below 80°F. In these conditions, worms can accelerate decomposition and enhance the nutrient content of your finished compost.

However, it's important to understand that hot composting—which many gardeners practice—creates temperatures between 110-160°F. These temperatures kill worms quickly. While this heat is beneficial for killing weed seeds and pathogens, it means worms and hot composting don't mix.

If you're determined to incorporate worms into a larger composting system, consider creating worm-friendly zones:

Use the outer edges of your compost pile where temperatures are cooler
Create a separate "finishing" bin where partially composted materials can be processed by worms
Build a layered system with worms in the bottom section and active composting on top

Worms significantly accelerate the breakdown of certain materials. Kitchen scraps like coffee grounds, vegetable peels, and fruit waste decompose 30-50% faster with worm assistance. However, woody materials and tough garden waste still require traditional composting methods.

For outdoor bins, you may not need to add worms at all. Native earthworms often migrate naturally into compost piles that maintain appropriate moisture and temperature conditions. Within 3-6 months, a healthy outdoor pile typically develops a natural worm population.

Set realistic expectations about what worms can process. They excel at breaking down soft, moist organic materials but cannot effectively decompose:

Woody stems
Thick cardboard
Nut shells
Avocado pits
Large volumes of citrus peels

How to Start Your First Worm Bin in 5 Simple Steps

Creating your first worm bin is straightforward and budget-friendly. Here's how to get started:

Step 1: Build or buy your bin
For a DIY option under $30:

Get a dark-colored plastic storage container (18"L x 12"W x 12"H)
Drill 15-20 1/8" holes in the lid for air
Add 10-12 1/4" holes along the upper sides for ventilation
Place a tray underneath to catch any moisture

Step 2: Create perfect bedding
The ideal bedding mix includes:

70% shredded newspaper or cardboard (torn into 1" strips)
20% coconut coir or peat moss
10% finished compost or garden soil (introduces microorganisms)

Moisture level is crucial—squeeze the bedding and it should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Too dry and worms dehydrate; too wet and they'll drown or try to escape.

Step 3: Add your worms
Start with 1 pound of red wigglers (approximately 1,000 worms) for a typical household bin. Place them on top of the bedding and they'll burrow in when exposed to light. Begin with a small population that can grow to match your waste production.

Step 4: Feed properly
Worms thrive on:

Fruit and vegetable scraps (chopped into 1" pieces)
Coffee grounds and filters
Tea bags (remove staples)
Crushed eggshells (provides grit for digestion)

Avoid these 7 problematic items:

Meat, dairy, or oily foods (attract pests)
Citrus peels and onions (can be acidic in large amounts)
Bread products (mold issues)
Pet waste (pathogen concerns)
Glossy paper or cardboard
Pesticide-treated plants
Large amounts of grass clippings (heat generation)

Step 5: Maintain your system

Feed weekly, burying food in a different spot each time
Keep moisture consistent (add dry bedding if too wet)
Store in a location between 55-77°F
Harvest castings every 3-4 months

Common beginner problems have simple solutions:

Escaping worms? Your bin is likely too wet, too dry, or lacks adequate food
Smelly bin? You're overfeeding or have poor drainage
Fruit flies? Bury food scraps completely under bedding

In your first month, expect a week-by-week progression:

Week 1: Worms explore and adjust to their new home
Week 2: First visible consumption of food scraps
Week 3: Baby worms may appear if conditions are favorable
Week 4: Noticeable reduction in bedding volume as processing begins

For urban gardeners with minimal space, consider vertical worm towers or stacking systems that maximize processing capacity while maintaining a small footprint.